In my previous video post, How to Not Magnetize, I explored the world of using wall putty instead of magnets.
The Space Marine Centurion kit has long intimidated me. I like to build “What You See Is What You Get” models (meaning that the model itself shows what weapons it is using in a game) not because I play with anyone who requires it… but because it’s kind of a fun challenge sometimes. The Centurion Kit has 3 chest weapon options, 4 arm weapons, and 2 more options for one of those arm weapons. That’s… a lot of permutations.
And the Centurions have very tiny areas where these weapons attach, especially the chest weapons. They are so tiny. So very tiny. Magnets don’t really seem to be an option for the Centurion, not realistically.
But mounting putty? That’s a whole different story.
I built one Centurion, and then started making and sticking weapons on it. Here’re all the various arm weapons (I didn’t swap out the chest weapon, but trust me, they are swappable):
The putty option isn’t perfect. Sometimes, it’s hard to get the right amount. Sometimes, it isn’t enough. But… considering what a mess drilling holes for magnets could be, mounting putty remains a really solid option for building a completely flexible unit without buying a million models, or asking opponents to pretend the lascannons are heavy bolters. Don’t get me wrong – I think people who are strict about that kind of thing are likely assholes, but I do enjoy the challenge, and I really enjoy using all the parts that come in the box.
Hello, friends! Several updates are incoming, so please accept my apologies for the lack of posts recently. Let’s start with Chaplain DuChamps, a member of my Space Marine chapter, who got all painted up. Somewhere I have WIP photos, but I can’t find them… and I’d rather post than procrastinate (for once)!
So, here’re some shots of him:
That picture is dark, but it’s a good angle. Note that the base isn’t finished… but it does have loads of skulls, so there’s that.
Hooray for painting! I feel pretty good about the Chaplain. He needs some work on the skull decor, and I want to scrawl some Litanies of Hate on the scroll at his waist, but otherwise he is good to go.
Whoa, sorry about that hiatus there. I had to deal with, y’know, the real world… but we’re back! And guess what – I painted something!
If you’ve been reading Save vs. Blog, then you know I avoid painting for no good reason. Earlier this year, I started to really push myself to paint, and I’ve been pleased with the results. Well, while I haven’t blogged about it, I’ve still been doing nerd stuff in the time I have. One thing I’m doing now is starting a game of Deathwatch, the Space Marine RPG from Fantasy Flight Games. I really wanted to have nice miniatures for my players to represent their characters in the game… and that means painting minis.
To get back into it, I decided to paint up an Inquisitor who will be an NPC in the game. Plus, when he’s not pulling NPC duty, he’s a great Inquisitor for use with my Grey Knights. While I figured this would just be a practice run, I’m happy with the finished product. Let’s check him out!
First, I sprayed him over with good old-fashioned automobile primer. These spray primers are much cheaper than the ones you’ll find in a gaming store… and since I really like to start from a neutral color, rather than black or white, being able to use gray is strongly preferred. So far, they’ve worked out just fine.
Now, the real problem wasn’t painting – the real problem is that I still don’t have a macro box set up to take pictures of miniatures. These pictures, as a result, have awful lighting. You have my sincere apologies.
Terrible picture, but you can still make out the color choices, the shading, and other detail work… it just looks awful in this picture, is all.
I love the way power swords are painted nowadays – where once, everything was just metallic, now it’s all blazing energy or electrical lighting. So, I decided to go for that effect on the Inquisitor’s sword. I give myself a B-, but I think I know how to improve.
In the reverse angle, you can see the Inquisitor’s power pack and some of the highlighting on his clothing. I’m happy with that. His inferno pistol also looks a little better in this picture.
Alright, it’s finally a good picture! Here, you can see finer details, like his glowing eye and matching cybernetic eye. I’m happy with the red trim on his coat and the graying locks of hair. I’m not completely satisfied with the face shading, because it doesn’t really pop like it should. I’m not going back in there with the brush, though, so it is what it is.
There you have it – I’m painting! Overall, this figure is too dark in shades, which hides a lot of his detail in normal lighting. I need to use bolder colors to contrast with the black coat and hat. Still, I’m excited – I don’t have much practice at painting, but my earliest work shows a lot of promise.
Now that I’ve painted the interior roughly to my satisfaction, it’s time to cobble this sucker together! I used the bulkhead as a guide to square the bottom and left side first:
This shot makes the interior look better, so I’m including it, too:
Yay! I love that bulkhead.
I then said a fond farewell to the interior and popped the right side and bottom on the model:
Unfortunately, as I was just getting some momentum, I discovered that Forge World had packed two of the left canard and no right canard! I know a lot of you have probably not experienced “double canard shock,” but it’s pretty brutal. Luckily, Forge World (and Games Workshop) have pretty great customer service when it comes to missing bits, so a new canard is on its way!
Here’s a shot of where I had to stop:
And another shot:
These shots don’t provide you with a good look of all the places where patching and filling are necessary. That’s the nature of the beast – if you plan on building a resin model, have a plan for filler and patches. Green Stuff, Liquid Green Stuff, Green Putty, and Apoxie Sculpt are all good for different reasons.
I used Apoxie Sculpt so far on the Storm Eagle, but I think, in some places, I would have been better off with Green Stuff and Green Putty. Liquid Green Stuff is perfect for tiny gaps and bubbles. However, there was a big chunk missing from the front of the left side. I don’t know if I accidentally broke it or if it came that way, but for that part – which was a straight, flat part – Apoxie Sculpt worked perfectly. I’ll try and get some pictures of that for the next (and last) assembly post. After that… painting!