Ghetorix is a warpwolf character warbeast (for laypersons, he’s a big, special werewolf with an axe) for my Circle Orboros army. Naturally, I didn’t like the way his wrists looked in his default pose. I say “naturally” because I tend to find flaws in every model that I am then motivated to convert to my own liking.
So, here’s Privateer Press’s photo of Ghetorix:
So… I had to change him. And that meant cutting his axe in half, then sculpting new handle wrapping in Green Stuff, and then pinning him together… and then taking terrible pictures of him because his axe is heavy and he’s not based yet.
Next, Ghetorix needs a FABULOUS base, because all special character werewolf types need a FABULOUS base. I just have no idea what that base should be…
Coming soon… some posts with painting, and some things not about minis, but about some other aspect of gaming… hopefully.
I have a small Cryx collection that I really ought to spend more time finishing. The centerpiece, of course, is the dastardly Deathjack. I love the Deathjack model, but it’s notoriously hard to keep together, it’s top-heavy, and the “official” pose leaves some things to be desired.
So, I set out with some goals in mind:
Deathjack’s clawed fingers would be turned inward. Out of the box, they point straight out, which looks dumb.
Deathjack’s head would be in the top half of his body. The hunched-over pose suggested by the instructions and box photo is awful, placing his head at the level of his waist, apparently.
Deathjack’s head would be positioned so he strode into battle with his chin up, and not so that he was dejectedly looking at the ground.
Deathjack would be pinned all over. His spikes, his chimneys, his shoulders, his arms, his claws – everything would have pins and whatever adhesive necessary to make him solid. Pieces would not fall off.
Deathjack’s pose would be as dynamic as I could manage.
In the end, I declare success! (mostly)
Here is how he looks right now (pending a little bit of cleanup and gap-filling):
And Now, the Horror
This wasn’t easily accomplished. Here’re some of the horrors I endured while accomplishing this:
Pins in every joint, including a finger and a thumb, the spikes on the back of the hands, and the outstretched rib cage bits on his chest.
Big pins holding his legs into the base. The base is Super Sculpey glued to the plastic base, with craft matchsticks to create a “hardwood floor” or “deck” look, along with some bits of broken plaster for debris.
Gorilla Glue. The big pins in the legs weren’t enough to hold Deathjack still. Since there were gaps between the feet and ankles, I filled it with Gorilla Glue, which expands as it dries. This filled those gaps, holding Deathjack fast and steady to the base.
Once I found out how well Gorilla Glue worked in the ankles, I poured it into the hips, too. I had flared Deathjack’s legs out a bit, and that made them impossible to secure to the pelvis part. But the expanding Gorilla Glue closed the gaps and secured it. I did have to cut and file at the excess Gorilla Glue to clean up the gap, though.
Gorilla Glue helped secure the goofy wrist poles into the two-part claw pieces.
Apoxy Sculpt filled in the gap under the head to help me attach the head to the neck at the angle I wanted.
Liquid Green Stuff helped me fill smaller gaps and secure things like the spikes on the backs of the hands, the thumb that had broken off before I even started bending it, and the gaps left in the hips.
Most remarkably, I broke six or seven (very tiny) drill bits while trying to make pilot holes for pins. All of these bits remain in Deathjack, some of them acting as de facto pins to help keep him together.
It took a lot of time, and there were several moments (especially as drill bits broke) where I wanted to throw Deathjack against the wall, but in the end, I think the finished product speaks for itself, and makes the frustration well worth it.